Train WC's
It is a thrill on par with bungi jumping to pee in a train WC. It´s much like an airplane toilet but you´re given an OS handle to which you cling as the train tosses about in rounding the corners. All that would make it more exciting is to pee off the back of the caboose as the track whizzes below!
Friday, February 23, 2007
On a Southbound Train
Feb 17, 2007
We´re tearing through the countryside at well over 150 miles per hour on a TGV train southbound from Paris to Bordeaux, through Tarbes and Dax, and ultimately to Lourdes, which lies at the foot of the mighty Pyrenées. We go seeking repose from the rush of Paris; we venture seeking solace in the hot springs of Cauterets.
Yesterday we tackled the Louvre - er, most of it anyway - which is no small feat, and anyone familiar with the size and scope of this museum will understand and agrree. It´s hard to believe it built as a hunting residence originally (or at least part of it). So many works of art - Renaissance masterpieces, Egyptian and Assyrian artifacts, thousands of canvases and objets d´art each calling for individual attention. It´s enough to wear one out. Here´s the low down: The Mona Lisa, in all its glory, leaves the real one seeming small and blassé. C´est interessant, n´est-ce pas? Venus de Milo and Winged Victory at Samothrace are stunning and majestic sculptures; the Code of Hammurabi is an imposing black stone megalith - befitting the harsh laws it represented; and there were canvasses, by David, Géricault, Véronèse, and Rubens, that leave one gasping at their enormity. Try painting a 20x30 foot canvass in the intense realism of the Renaissance style!
We had the good fortune of entering the Louvre during a strike of the museum workers (une grève), who were preventing anyone from paying for an entry ticket in order to put pressure on the museum to meet the demands of the union. At the end of our seven hour stint within the museum (we stopped for a lunch at one of the cafes within), the strike was over, their demands perhaps met or an agreement made to go to the bargaining table, and people were paying to enter once again. Quelle chance, hein?
Our lodging at the Centre International de Paris (BVJ) was quite nice, a step up from the night before at the Hôtel Henri IV, and was located within an old building on a narrow Medieval-esque back street, very near to the Louvre. It had quite modern amenities and an inviting common area with cafe-like seating. Our room, on the fourth floor, opened like many into an open courtyard with a skylight below which was atop the common area. There was a welcome calm in the moderate air of the space, at least until the evening when a huge group of Germans (students perhaps?) arrived and many discovered how fun it would be to shout at a friend from one room to another across the courtyard space. I was reminded of my German friends and their delightful sense of humor, not to mention their impeccable language skills, as this group shouted in German, French and English. I also recalled the experience of my good friend Marcus in a similar hostel in Barcelona where someone had played trumpet into the courtyard air.
It´s a tremendous experience, the blending of cultures - the medium of language, the realization that you know not where another is from until he or she speaks (and perhaps not even then), and of course the good natured coexistence of persons, ambassadors of culture and travellers all on this earth.
We´re tearing through the countryside at well over 150 miles per hour on a TGV train southbound from Paris to Bordeaux, through Tarbes and Dax, and ultimately to Lourdes, which lies at the foot of the mighty Pyrenées. We go seeking repose from the rush of Paris; we venture seeking solace in the hot springs of Cauterets.
Yesterday we tackled the Louvre - er, most of it anyway - which is no small feat, and anyone familiar with the size and scope of this museum will understand and agrree. It´s hard to believe it built as a hunting residence originally (or at least part of it). So many works of art - Renaissance masterpieces, Egyptian and Assyrian artifacts, thousands of canvases and objets d´art each calling for individual attention. It´s enough to wear one out. Here´s the low down: The Mona Lisa, in all its glory, leaves the real one seeming small and blassé. C´est interessant, n´est-ce pas? Venus de Milo and Winged Victory at Samothrace are stunning and majestic sculptures; the Code of Hammurabi is an imposing black stone megalith - befitting the harsh laws it represented; and there were canvasses, by David, Géricault, Véronèse, and Rubens, that leave one gasping at their enormity. Try painting a 20x30 foot canvass in the intense realism of the Renaissance style!
We had the good fortune of entering the Louvre during a strike of the museum workers (une grève), who were preventing anyone from paying for an entry ticket in order to put pressure on the museum to meet the demands of the union. At the end of our seven hour stint within the museum (we stopped for a lunch at one of the cafes within), the strike was over, their demands perhaps met or an agreement made to go to the bargaining table, and people were paying to enter once again. Quelle chance, hein?
Our lodging at the Centre International de Paris (BVJ) was quite nice, a step up from the night before at the Hôtel Henri IV, and was located within an old building on a narrow Medieval-esque back street, very near to the Louvre. It had quite modern amenities and an inviting common area with cafe-like seating. Our room, on the fourth floor, opened like many into an open courtyard with a skylight below which was atop the common area. There was a welcome calm in the moderate air of the space, at least until the evening when a huge group of Germans (students perhaps?) arrived and many discovered how fun it would be to shout at a friend from one room to another across the courtyard space. I was reminded of my German friends and their delightful sense of humor, not to mention their impeccable language skills, as this group shouted in German, French and English. I also recalled the experience of my good friend Marcus in a similar hostel in Barcelona where someone had played trumpet into the courtyard air.
It´s a tremendous experience, the blending of cultures - the medium of language, the realization that you know not where another is from until he or she speaks (and perhaps not even then), and of course the good natured coexistence of persons, ambassadors of culture and travellers all on this earth.
Little Known Facts
Leftovers?
French restaurants are not likely to have take-home boxes for your remaining portions, so eat up! Bon appetite!
Seagulls
Seagulls sound different in France. Why? Because they´re speaking French. Though, really, they do sound different.
French restaurants are not likely to have take-home boxes for your remaining portions, so eat up! Bon appetite!
Seagulls
Seagulls sound different in France. Why? Because they´re speaking French. Though, really, they do sound different.
From Paris to Lourdes
02-17-2007
Yesterday, we checked out of Henri IV and found a room at the BVJ Louvre Hostel (breakfast included!). After stuffing our backpacks into lockers, we explored the Louvre for the rest of the day (about seven hours). Due to a worker´s strike, we gained free entrance! The Louvre building itself is beautifully decorated and architecturally interesting. I tried to imagine it as the hunting palace (vacation home, if you will) that it once was: what was the purpose of each room; where did each tall, graceful door lead? Images of the movies Marie Antoinette and Russian Ark kept coming to mind. Quite surreal, really. But on to the art: we saw all of the paintings that we could (the Holland wing was unfortunately closed when arrived there and I fear I missed some awesome works by Van Gogh, but I´m not sure). However, all of the paintings were really magnificient (though the Mona Lisa is surprisingly small) and I really enjoyed seeing works by Pissaro, Monet, and Bonnard. It was late when we finished the paintings, but we walked through some other areas for a bit and saw some sculptures and various works of ancient cultures, including the stone that holds the Code of Hamarabi. Overall, the Louvre was awesome, though it would take a very long time to really see all of the work that it holds. Later, we had dinner at the Louvre food court, then retreated to the hostel to plan our next move as Paris is a bit overwhelming at this point, particularily for me as I prefer the quiet country-side and can´t wait to see a forest! We´ll be back to see more of Paris at the end of our trip.
We decided today after breakfast (coffee, baguettes and jam, orange juice, and plain yogurt) to head to Cauterets to hike in the Pyrenees and enjoy the hotsprings. After Shaun made a reservation for a hotel, we loaded our packs and walked all the way to Gare Montparnasse to take the high-speed TGV to Lourdes. We had our Eurail passes validated as it was the first time we used them, and each paid a 3 euro supplement for the TGV. We watched the departures board carefully for Lourdes, but when it didn´t appear 15 minutes ahead of time as it was supposed to, we started asking questions! We found out that towns Tarbes and Dax were posted, through which we´d reach Lourdes at the end of the line (it pays to know your geography!), and were directed to the correct platform. But there, with only minutes to departure, we found our car was almost to the end of the train, so we had a mad dash and were glad for our light packs! We left the station at 14.40 and will arrive in Lourdes at 20.30, so we have the daylight to view the country-side. So far, it looks somewhat like the farmland of the midwest.
People have been very friendly and helpful thus far, and communication is becoming easier even for me! Of course, Shaun does most of the talking and is doing very well with his French. I know he feels a bit flustered at times, but he´s been able to get all of the information we need and relate to people in a way that builds bridges of understanding. As for me, I´m getting used to saying merci, au revoir, oui, no, perdon, and dropping the ends of my words!
Yesterday, we checked out of Henri IV and found a room at the BVJ Louvre Hostel (breakfast included!). After stuffing our backpacks into lockers, we explored the Louvre for the rest of the day (about seven hours). Due to a worker´s strike, we gained free entrance! The Louvre building itself is beautifully decorated and architecturally interesting. I tried to imagine it as the hunting palace (vacation home, if you will) that it once was: what was the purpose of each room; where did each tall, graceful door lead? Images of the movies Marie Antoinette and Russian Ark kept coming to mind. Quite surreal, really. But on to the art: we saw all of the paintings that we could (the Holland wing was unfortunately closed when arrived there and I fear I missed some awesome works by Van Gogh, but I´m not sure). However, all of the paintings were really magnificient (though the Mona Lisa is surprisingly small) and I really enjoyed seeing works by Pissaro, Monet, and Bonnard. It was late when we finished the paintings, but we walked through some other areas for a bit and saw some sculptures and various works of ancient cultures, including the stone that holds the Code of Hamarabi. Overall, the Louvre was awesome, though it would take a very long time to really see all of the work that it holds. Later, we had dinner at the Louvre food court, then retreated to the hostel to plan our next move as Paris is a bit overwhelming at this point, particularily for me as I prefer the quiet country-side and can´t wait to see a forest! We´ll be back to see more of Paris at the end of our trip.
We decided today after breakfast (coffee, baguettes and jam, orange juice, and plain yogurt) to head to Cauterets to hike in the Pyrenees and enjoy the hotsprings. After Shaun made a reservation for a hotel, we loaded our packs and walked all the way to Gare Montparnasse to take the high-speed TGV to Lourdes. We had our Eurail passes validated as it was the first time we used them, and each paid a 3 euro supplement for the TGV. We watched the departures board carefully for Lourdes, but when it didn´t appear 15 minutes ahead of time as it was supposed to, we started asking questions! We found out that towns Tarbes and Dax were posted, through which we´d reach Lourdes at the end of the line (it pays to know your geography!), and were directed to the correct platform. But there, with only minutes to departure, we found our car was almost to the end of the train, so we had a mad dash and were glad for our light packs! We left the station at 14.40 and will arrive in Lourdes at 20.30, so we have the daylight to view the country-side. So far, it looks somewhat like the farmland of the midwest.
People have been very friendly and helpful thus far, and communication is becoming easier even for me! Of course, Shaun does most of the talking and is doing very well with his French. I know he feels a bit flustered at times, but he´s been able to get all of the information we need and relate to people in a way that builds bridges of understanding. As for me, I´m getting used to saying merci, au revoir, oui, no, perdon, and dropping the ends of my words!
Day One in Paris
02-15-2007
We arrived at Charles de Gaulle airport in Paris at 9:40 am today. After only four hours of sleep last night and two hours on the plane, it´s suddenly morning in Paris and time to get on with the day! We´re both exhausted and getting out of the airport took some time. However, with Shaun´s bit of French, we made it to the metro and were serenaded by two accordians most of the way to St. Michel. We found a room for the night at Hotel Henri IV, a modest room with double bed, desk, and bathroom with shower. Later, we took a walk and toured Notre Dame.
We arrived at Charles de Gaulle airport in Paris at 9:40 am today. After only four hours of sleep last night and two hours on the plane, it´s suddenly morning in Paris and time to get on with the day! We´re both exhausted and getting out of the airport took some time. However, with Shaun´s bit of French, we made it to the metro and were serenaded by two accordians most of the way to St. Michel. We found a room for the night at Hotel Henri IV, a modest room with double bed, desk, and bathroom with shower. Later, we took a walk and toured Notre Dame.
Tuesday, February 20, 2007
Second Day
Feb 16, 2007
It's the second day abroad and already I've experienced my first trip to Chicago - complete with generous seat space - and my first international flight - with much smaller seat space. I've had my first traveller's ailment (from a bit of dehydration and lack of sleep, I think - not from tainted water or food); my first scam (a man dropped his own ring, pretended to have lost it, gave it to me and then asked for "money pour food"). I've toured Notre Dame and seen more Renaissance paintings in the Louvre than I'll probably ever see again; I've spent more euros than I hoped to and I've felt more initial culture shock than I had expected. But all in all, I've proven to myself that I can travel smartly: I can make plans and follow through with them, I can be flexible when need be, I can overcome a language barrier (even with signing what I want to impart), and I can enjoy myself immensely half way around the world. More so after the jet lag subsides...
Sunday, February 18, 2007
Shaun at O'Hare
02-14-2007Shaun and I embarked on our tour of Europe today! After flying out of Spokane, we spent six hours on lay-over in the Chicago O´Hare airport and took lots of pictures in the lighted tunnel, then later boarded the plane for Paris. After take-off, flight attendants handed out warm wet towels. John told us about this event he´d experienced on his flight to Germany a couple years ago. Well, John, we were just as confused about what to do with them as you were, so we did as you did and watched those around us. People wiped their hands and some, their faces; we decided we were "washing up" for dinner, which was served a few minutes later.
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